Gay Tourism - Buenos Aires, Argentina
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A pair of
tango dancers moves awkwardly across the floor, laughing as they try
to avoid stepping on one another's toes. As tango classics waft out of
the sound system and a disco ball casts its refracted light, the pair
is like any other learning a new dance — except they're both men.
It's
Wednesday night in Buenos Aires, and the country's only gay milonga is
in full swing.
Goddess, a local
gay club, began offering the milonga — a tango dance party — five months
ago, around the time
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that organizers Roxana Gargano and Augusto Balizano
began to notice an influx of gay tourists into Buenos Aires. It's the latest
offering in a city that is fast becoming the hottest gay destination in
South America.
Buenos Aires is
in the midst of a tourism boom. The Argentine peso lost two-thirds of its
value shortly after the country's 2001 economic collapse. Though bad for
Argentines, that drop has been good for tourists, who are now flooding what
was once the most expensive city in South America.
"Buenos Aires is
New York or London at one-quarter of the price," said Ray de la Pena, who
visited the city from Hawaii three times in 2003.
Indeed, more than
6.5 million tourists visited Buenos Aires in the first 11 months of 2003, a
38% increase over the same period in 2002, according to figures compiled by
the Secretary of Economic Development.
In November, the
most recent month for which figures are available, tourists spent more than
$220 million in the city.
No figures exist
on how many of those tourists are gay, but several signs point to a
significant growth in their numbers.
In May, Carlos
Melia opened Pride Travel, the first and only agency in Buenos Aires
dedicated exclusively to gay travel. Seven months later he has six employees,
and Melia said the agency was immediately profitable. It puts out "The
Ronda," a gay guide to Buenos Aires, and is expanding to become an
information center for local gays and lesbians.
Other travel
agencies are adding gay-oriented offshoots. And five months ago Friendly
Apartments opened its doors, renting upscale city apartments to gay
travelers. The agency currently maintains 15 apartments and will be adding
11 more, said Matias Pico, the agency's coordinator.
Buenos Aires, a
city of 3 million, is often called the "Paris of South America" for its cafe
culture, French-style architecture and sophistication of its residents, most
of whom descend from Spanish and Italian immigrants.
Juan Carlos
Campillo, of Mexico City, visited Buenos Aires in July and found the city
measured up to its cosmopolitan reputation.
"I chose Buenos
Aires because many people had told me how beautiful the city was, that the
people were friendly and cultured," he said. "My friends were right — it was
like being in Europe."
The city boasts a
lively gay scene. Buenos Aires is famed for its nightlife, with dozens of
bars and discos open every night and portenos — as the multinational
denizens of Buenos Aires are known — dancing until the sun comes up.
Numerous gay bars and dance clubs have opened recently, giving visitors
plenty of opportunities to party like the locals.
There are also
gay-only bed and breakfasts, gay-run restaurants, a nearby gay-only beach,
and shops and hotels that advertise as "gay-friendly".
Gay travel is a
major business worldwide. In 2002 it generated $55 billion in receipts in
North America alone, according to Robert Wilson, executive director of the
International Gay and Lesbian Travel Association.
That Buenos Aires
is viewed as one of the most progressive cities in South America fuels its
appeal to the gay community. Though there is no exact information on the
number of gays and lesbians living in Buenos Aires, the community is one of
the most open and vibrant in the region. The Argentina Homosexual Community,
the country's first gay rights organization, was created in 1984. And in
2002 the city became the first in Latin America to pass a civil union law,
giving gays and lesbians most of the rights enjoyed by married couples.
Wilson said of
the law that there is "no doubt whatsoever that it contributes to a sense of
the city as progressive."
Some
neighborhoods, like fashionable Palermo and Recoleta, are known for being
safe and accepting places for gays and lesbians. Though gay visitors may
need to be circumspect in some parts of the city, a live-and-let-live
attitude generally prevails.
"If you want to
walk with your partner holding hands, no one will say anything," Melia said.
The city's
sophistication, riverside location and proximity to Chile and Brazil combine
to make Buenos Aires "one of the major gay destinations in the world,"
Wilson said.
Traditionally,
gay tourists have had few South American destination options. The heavily
Catholic region tends to be conservative and inhospitable to gays and
lesbians.
It also has few
large, cosmopolitan cities. Santiago, Chile, prohibits any physical
affection between members of the same sex in public. Rio de Janeiro,
traditionally the major South American gay destination, is falling out of
favor as its crime rate spirals.
As they look for
a new destination, Buenos Aires' rich cultural life, progressive attitude
and bargain prices are appealing, Melia said.
Pico said the
city's thriving culture, fascinating history and sumptuous dining will lure
him back again.
"I loved the
friendliness of the people, the food," he said. "I'm dying to return."
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