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Closed Door Restaurants in Buenos Aires

The driver of our yellow-and-black cab rattles through the cobbled streets of Palermo Hollywood in downtown Buenos Aires, slows to a crawl on Calle Soler and peers through his smeary windscreen, searching for No 5518. “Doesn’t look like a restaurant,” he mutters. It isn’t. It’s a puerta cerrada, one of the city’s so-called “closed-door” restaurants, a cross between a pop-up and a speakeasy, where a handful of guests gather to dine on a limited-choice menu, often in the chef’s home.

Where and What to Drink in Buenos Aires

We live in a drinking city. People here get off work around 6 p.m., have a couple of beers, possibly followed by a vermouth. With dinner, we drink wine—never cocktails. Dinner starts around 10 p.m. and can last until one in the morning. A digestivo or a glass of whiskey is the go-to post-dinner drink. People typically have one to three more cocktails in the after hours. It’s not uncommon to stay out till 6 a.m.

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