Maths has never been my strong suit. I do the conversion in my head and I think I have the exchange rate from Australian dollars to Uruguayan pesos all worked out. I suck the last olive from my martini and take a seat at the blackjack table. I am in the self-proclaimed Las Vegas of South America at 2am on a Tuesday. Two hundred pesos to $1 is great value. I push all my chips towards the dealer and he flicks out the cards.

A 10 and a 5 land in front of me. Perfect.

For his own cards, the dealer puts down a 10 and an ace.

I’m out. And only then do I realise my mistake: 20 pesos equals $1. Bugger. The dealer scoops away my entire gambling budget for the week and smiles at me before saying “sorry” in perfect English.

The trills of the gambling machines are at odds with the empty corridors filled with a handful of old ladies still coaxing the pokies to reward their commitment. I wander back to my room to await the hangover and chastisement from my girlfriend.

Punta del Este on the Atlantic Coast of Uruguay is marketed as a beach resort and playground for celebrities. During the peak period of December and January, it is also said to be one of the most expensive places in South America.

Our budget for a week of high-class living has sprung a leak, so we set out the next morning to explore the area on the cheap, hopeful that we can survive without having to dive into the dumpsters for food. Walking to town along La Brava beach, it is deserted; there is no one for kilometres, apart from the fishermen standing in wet sand waiting for a twitch on their lines.

At the far end of the beach it looks as if we have stumbled across the tip of a buried city. A colossal hand claws through the sand, the blue-grey sculpture reaches towards the sky stretching for something eternally out of reach. La Mano is the work of Chilean artist Mario Irarrazabal; this searching hand is one of the most recognisable symbols in Uruguay. From La Mano we continue along Avenida Gorlero, taking a wide berth around the boutique stores selling big hats and holiday jewellery in US dollars rather than pesos. Behind us, downtown Punta del Este is littered with row upon row of skyscrapers – 30-storey sentinels that are populated by no one but the gardeners and live-in maids who keep the damp away in preparation for the summertime rush.

We continue exploring the streets and it seems as if we are the survivors of an apocalypse: doors are closed and windows boarded. A tourism representative, Mariana, later tells me that for 11 months of the year Punta is like a fishing village – and how most of the year-round population of about 8000 prefer it.

With lunchtime approaching, we are expecting the inflated prices of summer but are surprised at the options available in the side streets around town. I find a chivito for 95 pesos (about $5). The chivito is the national sandwich of Uruguay and it resembles a Frankenstein version of a steak sandwich. Complete with steak, lettuce, tomato, egg, bacon, cheese, mashed potato, chips, mayonnaise and olives on a roll, it is enough for a hungry lumberjack. Washed down with a local Zillertal beer ($3 for a litre), it is the perfect prelude to a South American siesta, another national passion.

Continuing the bargain-hunting on Avenida Francia, we find “La Tucumanita” and order a pile of $1.50 empanadas to enjoy. My girlfriend is from Argentina, the home of the empanada, so it is with careful consideration that she pronounces these to be the best she’s ever eaten.

With Punta abandoned and windswept, we decide to venture from the town. Across from the Casa del Padre Pio church (with a confessional conveniently located across the road from the casino at the Conrad Hotel) we find a car-hire special and get a four-door Hyundai for $35 a day with which to explore the area.

Ten kilometres south of the city is the living museum-hotel Casa Pueblo, which resembles a set from Star Wars. Built on Punta Ballena (Whale Point) by renowned artist Carlos Paez Vilaro during the 1960s to resemble the nest of a Hornero bird, it is a honeycomb of rooms and staircases displaying the artist’s various abstract paintings and sculptures. The upper level has a bar and balcony looking out to the ocean. We take a seat near the railing at sunset just as the speakers kick to life and a recording of Vilaro’s Ceremony of the Sun poem is played to visitors. The crowd is silent and solemn as the homage to the setting sun is read aloud while the last orange strands disappear behind storm clouds over the Atlantic.

Vilaro completed his Casa Pueblo vision in honour of his son, who made headlines around the world in 1972 as one of the 16 survivors of the infamous flight-571 plane crash in the Andes. Vilaro’s son, Carlitos, was a member of the Uruguayan rugby team who had to survive on human remains for two months until rescued. This was later immortalised in the book and subsequent film, Alive.

From Casa Pueblo we cut across the edges of the Laguna del Sauce to Las Cumbres. Las Cumbres is a collection of 19 luxury suites hidden in the forest. Star Service named it as one of the top 100 hotels in the world. Wanting to treat ourselves to an affordable luxury, we have afternoon tea on the deck. While I initially baulk at the $22 cost, it is a bargain when the spread is put out before us. I gorge on apple strudel, chocolate cream cake with dulce de leche (sweet milk), champagne, pots of Darjeeling and jasmine tea, fresh croissants, sandwiches and mini pizzas.

Still strained from the Olympic-size afternoon tea, we head along Route 10 through farming country to La Paloma to explore the beaches. This village is at complete odds with Punta; it is a collection of pastel-painted huts in the trees, with little development. At the single-screen cinema on the main street, I notice Hugh Jackman on the poster for Australia, which is getting its first run.

On the edge of town, a guard at the Faro Cabo lighthouse seems glad of our company and tells us all the beaches are completely public here, so the high-rises and beach parties are avoided. For the $3 entrance fee he takes us up the 143 stairs to the top of the lighthouse, showing us the view south to our next destination, La Barra.

This is the epicentre of the January transformation, when a plethora of nightclubbers and beach partygoers descends on the town. We walk past designer-dress stores next to Quiksilver outlets and various overpriced seafood and steak restaurants, many of which display their prices in US dollars and euros instead of pesos. There are still budget options available, though, and after making our own gourmet gouda cheese and prosciutto rolls for less than $3, we find the Museo del Mar, an odd collection of skeletons, pygmy whale foetuses and shipwreck regalia that could easily feature in the wardrobe of The Pirates of Penzance.

As we head back into Punta del Este at twilight, I check my pocket and find a wad of pesos. We have survived our week on the cheap with flying colours. The flickering lights of the Conrad’s casino are in the distance. I smile at my girlfriend and wonder if she’d fancy a hand or two of blackjack with our leftovers.

GETTING THERE

Aerolineas Argentinas flies from Sydney to Buenos Aires, priced from $1312. See aerolineas.com.

From Buenos Aires, Buquebus runs a daily ferry-bus combination to Montevideo and Punta del Este, which takes about four hours. See www.buquebus.com.

WHERE TO STAY

Conrad Punta del Este is the premier location in Uruguay, with 296 rooms, a casino, restaurants and performance halls. Rates start at $US200 ($220) a night for spa-accommodation packages. See conrad.com.uy.

Las Cumbres has 19 suites in the forest outside Punta del Este. Packages start at $US165. The resort is open to the public for the famous “hora de te”, afternoon tea, every day. See cumbres.com.uy for more information.
____________________________________
SOURCE:
“Lifestyles of the skint”
February 28, 2010
The Sun-Herald
smh.com.au
Sydney Morning Herald
http://www.smh.com.au
http://www.smh.com.au/travel/lifestyles-of-the-skint-20100225-p58g.html

There are no stoplights in Jose Ignacio, which sits at the tip of a peninsula that’s 40 kilometers north of Punta del Este. There’s only one grocery store and barely a coffee shop. The town is six streets wide, with few buildings taller than two stories. The place falls asleep after 9 p.m. and hibernates from March to December. Up until two years ago, there were three hotels to choose from, including the Posada del Faro, which sits on the peninsula’s southern side, surrounded by mega-mansions. However, a gleaming new luxury hotel called Playa Vik is scheduled to open in March, a sister property of the Estancia Vik, which opened last year.

Just a few streets over is another new hotel, the Casa Chic, which offers apartment-style rooms around a sleek pool with an all-white design. The hotel seizes on the true beauty of Jose Ignacio, which lies in its walkability.

Locals can enjoy the packed beach club scene at La Huella by day and then walk almost-deserted streets at night. It wasn’t long ago that La Huella occupied a lonely spot along a dead-end road, but now it shares an expanding cluster of buildings with shops and fine restaurants.

Hollywood is part of the new glitz. Restauranteur Adolfo Suaya, the man behind the Los Angeles hot spots Geisha House and now-defunct The Lodge, has opened the resort Casa Suaya and its restaurant Butia.

If the new, starrier Jose Ignacio has you longing for the city’s days of obscurity, just head up the coast or inland. Just up the highway, travelers will find the eateries Marismo and Namm, and an eight-room inn called Arenas de Jose Ignacio. Guests can enjoy laid-back decor and old-fashioned prices.

High-heeled guests make their way to dinner at the new Sarava, a restaurant with an outdoor garden. The restaurant will soon get a new neighbor when the waterfront resort Laguna Escondida opens. Also new for 2010, or at least under new management, is La Caracola. A short 10-minute drive away from town leads to a small, unmarked parking lot filled with vintage cars and suave visitors. Across a saltwater lagoon, a single rowboat paddles guests back and forth to the island beach club that is home to a small eatery and bar.
__________________________________
SOURCE:

“Uruguay Town Becomes Hip New Vacation Spot”
By Michael Martin
01/11/10
The Street
http://www.thestreet.com
http://www.thestreet.com/story/10659064/1/uruguay-town-becomes-hip-new-vacation-spot.html

Frankie takes us back through the history of the event, why the big names return to Uruguay year-on-year and the unfortunate timing of this year’s event.

Punta’s very first Sevens tournament started back in the summer of 1989. The sun soaked beaches of Punta del Este, Uruguay, are amongst the best in South America and as much as Uruguayans flock to their own beaches, neighbouring Argentines usually cross the wide River Plate to find their summer playground.

Rugby has always been a part of the city – rugby balls seen in beaches such as Solanas to the South or Montoya to the North. Touch rugby on the beach was fun, but when the wise men of the British School Old Boys decided to have a Sevens tournament, they were hit with a response that shocked them.

As all good ideas, it needed the widespread support of the rugby community and with a trip to Punta del Este on the offing, a number of Argentine and Paraguayan sides made the trip for the inaugural tournament, played on January 6, 7 and 8th, 1989. The venue was to be in Punta del Este’s nearest stadium, the Campus de Maldonado in the centre of the Maldonado town, minutes from the beaches. The Campus hosted all but one of the sevens – in 1995 whilst it was being refurbished.

Organisers Old Boys were the winners of the very first Punta Sevens. Played in the middle of summer, matches only started late afternoon and the final kicked-off after midnight, becoming a feature.

Beautiful Punta pulls stars

The early success gave organisers sufficient momentum. By 1990, individual invitations were sent out: Wallaby Simon Poidevin, All Black Craig Innes, French fly-half Franck Mesnel who brought his Racing CF team-mates Ivon Rousset and Eric Blanc.

“They became ambassadors for the Punta del Este Sevens,” said Pedro Bordaberry, one of the original organisers and recently Uruguayan National President Candidate. “We made sure they loved their time here and they in turn spread the good word.”

The international star numbers grew and between ’91 and ’92 players of the stature of Zinzan Brooke, Walter Little, John Timu, Frank Bunce, Eric Rush, John Eales, Darren Junee, Denis Charvet came to Uruguay.

With the birth of Rugby World Cup Sevens in 1993, Punta del Este became a great warm-up tournament and now national teams were competing with club and composite teams.

That year 33 teams played. A New Zealand VII beat Australia in the final and that inaugural World Cup also helped to further spread the Punta Gospel, with Australian Bob Dwyer being a great supporter.

The Waisale Serevi-led Fiji Cavaliers won the 1994 tournament which had World Cup Sevens winner and future 15-a-side World Champion, Lawrence Dallaglio, playing for the Public School Wanderers. “I remember that tournament very well; it was the old amateur days and in Uruguay we had superb fun. Everything was late,” he said recently.

The growth of the tournament was sustained and received IRB-backing in 1997 when it hosted a RWC 7s Qualifying Round. When the IRB Sevens Series started in 1999-2000, Punta del Este was an established tournament and a natural stop, becoming the third tournament in the Series history.

This tournament had a peculiarity. Gordon Tiejtens, who had first visited Punta del Este in 1996, on arrival in Uruguay was informed his father had passed away. He returned home for the burial and back to Uruguay, missing only the first day of the tournament. This is understood to be the only time that he missed any New Zealand Sevens games since he became coach in 1996. With “Tietj” back on the sidelines, New Zealand crushed Fiji in the final.

Punta maintains core values

Rugby World Cup Sevens came to Mar del Plata (Argentina) in 2001; Punta del Este missed out as a venue for the IRB Sevens – dates clashed – and later a savage economic crisis meant they missed out on the international circuit.

The British School Old Boys never surrendered, even if it meant going back to its roots. It has regained some of its shine and what has never faltered is the spirit of the organisers, ensuring every detail is covered so that fun, friendship and rugby are top of the agenda. This tournament is an integral part of the sporting and social agenda of a city that in summer buzzes in excitement.

For the 2010 tournament, 21 teams have been divided into seven pools. Punta del Este and regional association Confederación Sudamericana de Rugby (CONSUR) failed to come to an agreement with dates.

In a region where international events don’t come very often, to have the Punta del Este Sevens played on January 3rd and 4th and the CONSUR Sevens in Mar del Plata on the 5th and 6th, followed by a third day with international teams, is a missed opportunity.

In its 21st season, it is clearly the senior statesmen of summer sevens and some common ground could have been found. The competing teams, announced by organisers are: two-time defending champion Samoa, Tonga, Canada and Italy; from Uruguay organisers Old Boys, Carrasco Polo Club, Old Christians and Trébol; from Argentina Buenos Aires, Salta, Nordeste and Tucumán (provincial teams) and clubs San Isidro Club, La Plata and Jockey Club de Salta; and invitation teams under the banners of Toyota, Bridgestone, Citi 7 and local bar Moby Dick in conjunction with Punta del Este club Lobos. Top Argentine and Uruguayan VIIs will be competing at the CONSUR tournament, using development sides for Punta.

Punta del Este 2009 Pools:
A – Tonga, Nordeste and Jockey Club de Salta
B – Uruguay, Bridgestone 7 and La Plata
C – Buenos Aires, Salta and Old Christians
D – Samoa, Tucumán and San Isidro Club
E – Canada, Toyota 7 and Carrasco Polo Club
F – Argentina 7, Lobos Moby Dick and Trébol
G – Italy, Citi 7 and Old Boys

About Punta del Este

Punta del Este is an upscale resort on the southern tip of Uruguay, southeast of Maldonado and about 140 km east of Montevideo. Although the town has a year-round population of about 7,300, the summer tourist boom often boosts the population by an extra 150,000.

Punta del Este has scenic coasts and beaches. There are two types of coast: Brava and Mansa. This shows the end of the Río de la Plata (Silver River) on one side and the beginning of the Atlantic Ocean, on the other side. Every beach of the peninsula has public access. There are quiet and calm water beaches while others have strong waves, white and fine sand or thick and golden ones. The split between wave types is around the Monumento al Ahogado, which the sculptor designed to warn swimmers that the rough waves could cause them to drown.

La Barra is popular for nautical sports and fishing. Other areas include El Tesoro resort, Montoya beach, Bikini beach and Manantiales beach. Nowadays this area has become an important tourist center.
_____________________________
SOURCES:

“Rugby in paradise – Seven de Punta del Este”
Sunday 27 December 2009
UR7S
http://ur7s.com
http://ur7s.com/news/713/rugby_in_paradise_seven_de_punta_del_este

“Punta del Este”
From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
http://en.wikipedia.org
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Punta_del_Este

Travelling to Argentina is great value because of the countries economic problems and leather goods are particularly affordable. And as with all clothing, you can claim a tax refund in the airport on your way home which makes it even better value.

Visiting a graveyard may not be everyones idea of a touristy thing to do but the Recoleta cemetary is one of the most interesting places in Buenos Aires. A who’s who from Argentinian history are buried here in grand style. And a number of prominent Irish people are buried alongside promienent Argentinians like Eva Peron. For Irish people the most interesting tomb will most likely be that of Admiral William Brown. Born in Co. Mayo, he is known as the Father of the Argentinian Navy and over 10,000 streets in Argentina are named after him.

The Cypress Inn is a B&B but don’t let that put you off. It is a very modern place to stay and its affordability makes it a great option if you are looking for somewhere a little different. It is located in the Palermo-Soho barrio which is very trendy area with lots of designer boutiues and restaurants where you can take advantage of the weak Argentinian currency.

Tango is synomymous with Buenos Aires and the famous dance was invented in the La Boca Barrio by sailors. La Boca is one of the biggest tourist attractions because of its connection with tango and if you fancy learning a few moves, this is the place for you. Tango is literally everywhere and while some of it can be tacky you do get begin to understand why it became so popular.

Besides exporting tango the the world, Argentina has also sent a steady stream of world class footballers to Europe . Of course the most famous of these was Diego Maradona. Boca Juniors is Maradona’s club and La Bombonera is one of the most famous stadiums in the world. If you are lucky enough to visit when a game is on, be sure to head along to see Boca or their more affluent neighbours River Plate. Even if you can’t make an actual game, a stadium tour is a great way to get a sense how important football is in Argentina.

Many tourists combine a trip to Buenos Aires with a trip to a traditional Estancia ranch such as the beautiful Estancia La Oriental. It is only three hours from the city but you will feel like you are in a completely different world when you arrive. The huge house was built by a wealthy farmer and exquisitely decorated with the finest European furniture. The ranch itself is set on 2,500 acres that is still open for business. Argentinean beef is amongst the best in the world and the Estancia La Oriental is a great place to try some Argentinean steak.

Back in the city, Buenos Aires has some of the best nightlife in South America. You can take in one of the many tango shows or head out clubbing in one of the many bars and nightclubs. But be warned, nightlife in Buenos doesn’t get going until about 2am and it goes on well past daybreak.

PRICES:

Continental
www.continental.ie
Dublin to Buenos Aires via Newark
Fares from €968 incl. taxes

Beacon South America
www.beaconsouthamerica.com
0818 300 123

7-Night Package excluding flights from €747 per person
Includes: Accommodation at the Argenta Towers Hotel and Suites
Half-Day tour of Buenos Aires
Tango Show including drinks and dinner
Full Day Fiesta Gaucho at Estancia

Argenta Tower Hotel and Suites
www.argenta-tower.co.ar

Estancia La Oriental
www.estancia-laoriental.com

Esquina Carlos Gardel (Tango)
www.esquinacarlosgardel.com.ar

Destino Argentina
www.destinoargentina.info

Eurotur
www.eurotur.com.ar

SHOPPING CENTRES:

Patio Bullrich
www.shoppingbullrich.com.ar / Tel: (+54 11) 4814-7400

Galerías Pacífico
www.galeriaspacifico.com.ar / Tel: (+54 11) 5555-5411

MUSEUMS:
Museo Boquense
www.museoboquense.com

_______________________________
SOURCE:
“Buenos Aires”
RTE Travel
30-03-2009
http://www.rte.ie
http://www.rte.ie/travel/nofrontiers/20080330_buenosaires.html

Horacio Paone for The New York Times
The Palacio Salvo was once the tallest building in South America.

Friday

4 p.m. 1) HOT DOGS, COOL ART

Dive right into downtown life by stopping off at Montevideo’s triple threat Plaza Fabini (18 de Julio and Rio Negro). Nicknamed Plaza del Entrevero by the locals for the statue in its center, the manicured, fountain-filled square is perfect for soaking in late afternoon rays and for people watching. The outdoor cafe, La Pasiva, is famous for its “panchos,” hot dogs served with a secret-recipe spicy mustard (18 Uruguayan pesos, about 85 cents at 21.57 pesos to the dollar), and best washed down with a bottle of Paso de los Toros, Uruguay’s contribution to the great grapefruit sodas of the world. And hiding underneath is the Subte (598-2-908-7643; www.subtemvd.blogspot.com), a free exhibition space that often features Uruguayan contemporary artists.

6 p.m. 2) PIECE OF CAKE

The apostrophe may be unnecessary, but everything else is just where it belongs at Cake’s (José Ellauri 1067; 598-2-707-6207; www.cakes.com.uy) in the upscale Pocitos neighborhood. It’s a wonderful place to have tea and sample the gargantuan desserts (108 pesos) that will easily keep hunger at bay until Montevideo’s late dinner hour. Try the Uruguayan-style mille-feuille, with loads of dulce de leche; or the Ramón Novarro, a chocolate cake with loads of dulce de leche; or the alfajores, cookies filled with loads of dulce de leche. (They do have some items without dulce de leche, but why bother?)

9 p.m. 3) HOLD THE CHEESE

Casual restaurants in Montevideo have strikingly similar menus based around chopp (draft beer), muzzarelas (tasty Sicilian pizza slices), fainá (flatbread made with chickpea flour) and chivitos (steak sandwiches). For an old-school spot that’s a cut above the rest, try Pizzería Trouville (21 de Septiembre 3104; 598-2-711-2598), a popular place in Pocitos that’s somewhere between a diner and a bar. Its muzzarelas are dripping with cheese (unless you just order “pizza,” which comes cheeseless) and taste especially good if you can snag an outdoor table.

11 p.m. 4) DOUBLE YOUR FUN

Montevideo is not on the radar of many celebrities (or not yet) but Baar Fun Fun (Ciudadela 1229, Mercado Central; 598-2-915-8005; www.barfunfun.com), a bar founded in 1895 and now a hot spot for tango and local candombé music, has attracted a few odd ones, as evidenced by the photographs on the wall. Among the wall-worthy: the Canadian rocker Bryan Adams; the actor Danny Glover; and Michelle Bachelet, the president of Chile. Meanwhile, Uruguayans of all ages pack into the place to drink uvita, a super-sweet wine-based concoction, listen to live performances and, to the extent the cramped bar allows, dance.

Saturday

11 p.m. 5) MORNING MARKET

Though taxis are cheap, Montevideo’s center is manageable on foot, and a good place to start is Mercado de los Artesanos (Plaza Cagancha 1365; 598-2-901-0887), a crafts market where artists do shifts selling each other’s candles, leatherwork, ceramic lamps and finger dolls. Afterward, walk down 18 de Julio to gawk at the Palacio Salvo, the tallest building in South America when it was built in the 1920s. Then wander into the old city, seeing how pleasant a historic district can be when you remove the tourists and install residents going about their daily business.

1 p.m. 6) MEET FOR MEAT

Saturday afternoons take on a virtual party atmosphere at the Mercado del Puerto (Piedras and Yacaré; 598-2-915-4178; www.mercadodelpuerto.com), a grand 19th-century port market that is a carnivore’s delight. The traditional routine: start at the bar of Roldós with a bottle of Medio y Medio, a mix of sparkling and dry wine that serves as the mercado’s official beverage and, at 120 pesos a bottle, is a rapid revelry inducer. Then switch to a Uruguayan red when you sit down for a meal at one of the parrillada restaurants like La Maestranza, while skilled grill masters roast hunks of meat and, probably just for show, the occasional green pepper. Lunch for two, with wine, is about 750 pesos.

4 p.m. 7) WHERE’S GURVICH?

From the seven deadly sins portrayed by barnyard animals, to paintings that resemble a Where’s Waldo montage, José Gurvich is one of Uruguay’s best-known 20th-century artists. Celebrate his work and life at the Gurvich Museum (Ituzaingó 1377, Plaza Matriz; 598-2-915-7826; www.museogurvich.org), a smartly laid-out museum that is a biography-in-a-building. Make your way through three floors of his paintings and sculptures and collages and murals — the man did everything but create videos for YouTube, and that’s probably only because he died in 1974.

7 p.m. SHARING STRAWS

Remember when weekend evenings meant hanging out on the waterfront with your thermos of hot water, drinking yerba mate through a shared metal straw? You don’t? Then you’re clearly not from Pocitos, where a stretch of the Rambla fills up with couples and groups of friends. The crowd skews young but by no means exclusively so. The owner of the mate, or gourd, pours in the water, and passes it to one friend after another. It’s a bring-your-own affair, so if you want to join, be sure to pick up a mate and thermos earlier in the day; they’re easy to find.

10 p.m. 9) SUSHI BREAK

Try as they might, Montevideanos cannot live on meat alone, and one place they take a break from the beef culture is at Café Misterio (Costa Rica 1700, Carrasco; 598-2-601-8765; www.cafemisterio.com.uy), a sushi bar that has for years been one of the hippest spots in town. Retro meets modern in the ever-changing décor, 30-somethings meet 60-somethings at the bar, and octopus sashimi (190 pesos for four pieces) meets mojitos (100 pesos) on the menu.

2 a.m. 10) ROUND (LIKE A RECORD)

At 2 a.m. it is almost too early to arrive at Lotus (World Trade Center; 598-2-628-1379; www.lotus.com.uy), Montevideo’s club-of-the-moment, but there are plenty of jam-packed bars in the area like El Pony Pisador (José Iturriaga 3497; 598-2-622-1885; www.elponypisador.com.uy) for a previa, or warm-up. Lotus itself is almost disturbingly round, like a disco on a 1970s Martian spaceship, but it creates a flowing transition between wallflowers on the outside, flirters one ring in and dancers sweating to house music on the inside. The crowd ranges from the ultraslick to those just looking to get down and have a good time with friends. Try to leave at 4:30 a.m., and you’ll be swimming against the tide of all the late arrivals.

Sunday

11 a.m. 11) MARKET MAKERS

Looking for fresh onions, candy-coated peanuts, comfy sweaters, used books, flowers, a used remote control and a puppy? You’ll find those and lots of other things at the Tristán Narvaja street fair, which takes over blocks and blocks around the thoroughfare of the same name on Sundays. Even if you’re not in the market for anything besides a stroll through an interesting market, you are guaranteed satisfaction.

1 p.m. 12) LAST CALL FOR CHIVITOS

If you’ve made it this far without having a chivito, the Uruguayan steak sandwich that even in its plainest form comes loaded with lettuce, tomato, egg and cheese, you may have set a Montevidean record. Papoñita (18 de Julio 1649; 598-2-408-4840), an old-school diner filled with cute old couples will end your streak. The Canadian chivito, which comes with ham, lettuce, tomato and tons of other stuff, is 160 pesos; the copa melba (175 pesos) is another specialty, a sky-high ice cream concoction that is nearly as much of an architectural accomplishment as some of the surrounding buildings.

THE BASICS

Flights between New York City and Montevideo require a connection, usually in Panama City, Buenos Aires, Santiago or São Paulo. A recent Web search for mid-November found a LAN Airlines flight from Kennedy Airport, connecting in Santiago, for $855. From Buenos Aires, the Uruguayan airline Pluna flies to Montevideo for $65 one-way.

Think twice before choosing a hotel downtown. Charming by day, the old city can be loud and unpleasant, or quiet and dangerous, at night. Since the city is so easily navigable by cheap taxis, it’s best to stay in an upscale neighborhood like Pocitos, which is right on the water. Most hotels accept U.S. dollars.

The 1950s Ermitage Hotel (Juan Benito Blanco 783; 598-2-710-4021; www.ermitagemontevideo.com) is an excellent value, with water-view rooms starting at $80.

A more modern option is the Punta Trouville Apart & Suites (Francisco Vidal 726 and Juan Maria Pérez 2957; 598-2-712-0903; www.puntatrouville.com.uy). Rooms, which are equipped with kitchenettes, start at $85.

For upscale accommodations, the Belmont House in the Carrasco neighborhood (Riviera 6512; 598-2-600-0430; www.belmonthouse.com.uy) has doubles starting at $240.
____________________________________
SOURCE:
“36 Hours in Montevideo, Uruguay”
By SETH KUGEL
Published: October 25, 2009
The New York Times
http://www.nytimes.com
http://travel.nytimes.com
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/10/25/travel/25hours.html

Buenos Aires: The capital of Argentina, Buenos Aires, is an excellent tourist destination. Explore the unique neighbourhoods, socialise in the outdoor cafes, and take in a tango show on your visit to this beautiful city.

Patagonia: Patagonia is a very large region in the south of Argentina. The region offers numerous sights and activities.

Iguazu Waterfalls: Explore one of the world’s greatest waterfalls on foot or from a boat that gives you a view of the water falling from below.

Salta: Salta City is the best preserved colonial city in Argentina. The province of Salta has a number of great attractions to the visitor.

Mendoza:  Argentine wines are world famous and most of the vineyards are located in the Mendoza province.

Colonia del Sacramento, Uruguay: Colonia is a very unique colonial town with narrow cobbled streets flanked by whitewashed buildings.

The Atlantic Coastline: Just a few hours drive South from Buenos Aires lies the city of Mar del Plata and the pretty towns of Pinamar, Carilo, and Villa Gesell.

Cordoba: Although there are not many tourist sites, the colonial architecture and surrounding sites will make the trip worthwhile.

Antarctica: Antarctica is the continent of ice around the South Pole of our planet. Although it is not located in Argentina, most trips for Antarctica start from Ushuaia, Argentina.

FOR THE FOCUSSED TRAVELLER

Argentina offers a lot for the traveller who’s focussed on specific tours. Here’s what is on offer:

Ecotourism: This is one of the most popular activities in Argentina. The most interesting activities in terms of ecotourism are hiking through national parks and natural reserves, and bird sightseeing, with nearly 1,000 identified species. The most important bird sightseeing areas are Esteros del Iberá in Corrientes and the national parks Iguazú, El Rey, Calilegua and Laguna Blanca, among others. Scuba diving can be practiced in Península Valdés, and also in the lakes and lagoons in the provinces of Córdoba, Mendoza, Neuquén and Río Negro and in the coasts of Tierra del Fuego.

Language Tourism: Studying Spanish and fully enjoying the “criollo experience” makes Argentina a fascinating place to discover. Living in its cities, discovering the warmth of its people, and immersing in its culture are some of the possibilities this destination offers, and some of the most entertaining ways to learn Spanish, the official language of the Argentine Republic.

Tourist Trains: Tourist trains is a different way to travel around Argentina. Amidst the amazing Argentine landscapes, still today the railroad system offers a different trip across the beautiful regions of the country. Its tourist trains, which multiply from north to south, allow visitors to enjoy the magical combination of history and nature. Each itinerary is a fascinating challenge for visitors, who can travel in steam locomotives, high-altitude trains, and enjoy itineraries through the forest or in the southernmost areas in the world, among others.

Wine Tourism:  Wine tourism in Argentina is a valid alternative that combines beautiful landscapes with typical local wines and gastronomy. Unlike other wine-producing countries, and due to its large territorial extension, Argentina offers a non-linear wine route, scattered in beautiful wine-producing oases almost parallel to the Andes Range. From the northern provinces of Salta and Catamarca down to Neuquén, Río Negro and Chubut in Patagonia, crossing Córdoba in the heart of the country and the Cuyo region — a wine producer par excellence — with the provinces of Mendoza, San Juan and La Rioja, each place is worth discovering.
________________________________
SOURCE:
“Amazing Argentina: Heaven on earth”
The Economic Times
25 May 2009
http://www.indiatimes.com
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com
http://economictimes.indiatimes.com/News/News-By-Industry/ET-Cetera/Amazing-Argentina-Heaven-on-earth/articleshow/4573324.cms

While the number of travellers from the US doubled from 35,000 in 2002 to 70,000 last year (excluding cruise ships), they constitute a mere fraction of the 2 million visitors that Uruguay receives annually.

To attract more Americans, Uruguay is promoting itself as a multi-destination site – for business events, sightseeing, recreation, and retirement. North Americans only need a valid passport – no visa – to enter the country. A new air terminal at Montevideo’s Carrasco International Airport, due for completion later in 2009, expanded port facilities in Colonia for those arriving by boat from Buenos Aires, and new highways underscore Uruguay’s commitment to tourism.

“We have a very unspoiled country,” Liliam Kechician, Uruguay’s Vice Minister of Tourism and Sport, told Travel World News recently. “Our campaign—UruguayNatural—is more than a slogan. We’re promoting our attitude toward the way we live.”

And it’s a seductive attitude. Uruguayans put out the welcome mat – and not just because tourism is the nation’s number two industry after agriculture.

Walk through Montevideo’s Ciudad Vieja (Old City) and a local is likely to stop and say, “Thank you for visiting.” It’s an authentic display of hospitality that pervades the country.

Located between its giant neighbours of Brazil and Argentina, Uruguay, about the size of Washington state, is defined by soft hills, grassy plains, and a fertile coast. Its population of 3.4 million, mostly of European descent, imparts an international flair to a distinctly Latin spirit. With a literacy rate of 97%, Uruguay ranks with Chile on the Global Peace Index as one of the two most peaceful countries in Central and Latin America.

Reflecting the idea behind Uruguay Natural, growth hormones and antibiotics are prohibited in livestock production.

As a result, the grass-fed cattle produce delicious meat that is exceptionally lean and high in nutrients. Similarly, fruits and vegetables fresh off the farm are full of natural flavour and that’s before the country’s many talented chefs work their gastronomic magic. Uruguayan wines also have become world famous with those from the Bouza winery, for example, winning award after international award.

The more one gets to know Uruguay, the longer one wants to stay. But for those with limited time, much can be seen in a week or so. Consider the following.

Colonia del Sacramento

A one-hour ferry ride across the Rio de la Plata from Buenos Aires, this World Heritage Site is the country’s oldest city. Spain and Portugal alternately ruled Colonia since 1680, leaving a quaint historic quarter marked by a unique blend of Spanish and Portuguese architecture.

Walk along the cobblestoned streets under yellow street lamps at night and make your way to the Lobo Restaurant on Calle del Comercio for a memorable meal that might include Spanish styled tapas, sautéed prawns, and rib eye steak. While exploring the region consider making the Sheraton Colonia Gold & Spa Resort, located just outside the city, your base where a staff of 120 pampers guests at this 92-room property. Los Cerros de San Juan, the country’s oldest vineyard, about 20 miles from Colonia, hosts groups (minimum of 10) year round. Visits include a tour and sampling of the wines produced from grapes that are harvested by hand at the peak moment of perfection. A lunch of fresh salad and Uruguay’s signature meal of parrillada—grilled sausages and steak—completes the visit. El Terruño (“Homeland”), an 800-acre sheep and ostrich breeding station, also near Colonia, showcases the gaucho life. It hosts parties, weddings, and individual tourists and accommodates overnight visitors. Gustavo Raffo, a good humoured, bear of a man, is eager for you to enjoy his hospitality.

Punta del Este

Located on a peninsula where the Rio de la Plata, the world’s widest river, meets the Atlantic Ocean, Punta del Este is South America’s premier seaside resort.

During the summer (December – March), the normal population of 10,000 balloons to more than half a million, but Punta del Este is prepared, offering everything vacationers might want: sailing, boating, surfing, and other water sports; fine restaurants; and casinos. Summer night life starts late, with dinner usually served after 11 p.m. The Conrad Punta del Este Resort & Casino provides easy access to all the town has to offer – from the calm river beach of Playa Mansa to the wilder ocean surf of Playa Brava. Not to be missed is Casa Pueblo. This rambling, white-washed hillside structure on nearby Punta Ballena, which took 36 years to build, is the home, studio, and gallery of its creator, famed Uruguayan painter and sculptor Carlos Páez Vilaró. Casa Pueblo attracts admirers, especially at sunset. During a delightful summer evening this past January, the artist, now in his eighties, greeted guests with the grace and energy found in his art.

Montevideo

This cosmopolitan capital of 1.2 million – featuring historical sites, old and new architecture, world class restaurants, music, theatre, and more – welcomes business and pleasure travellers alike. The Sheraton Montevideo Hotel, located in a residential neighbourhood overlooking the Río de la Plata, is centrally located, offering easy access to all sites. With the beach coming right up to the edge of Montevideo, one can drive along the Rambla with bustling city life on one side and sunbathers relaxing on the other.

Ciudad Vieja (the historical quarter) has been rejuvenated in recent years and is now the focal point of nightlife. If you have time, squeeze in a performance at Teatro Solis, a gem of a theatre similar in style to Milan’s La Scala.

Getting There

American Airlines, the only U.S. carrier flying to Uruguay, offers five nonstop flights a week from Miami to Montevideo during the November–March high season and three weekly flights otherwise. Daily connections through Buenos Aires (45 minutes away) are available year round. Montevideo and Punta del Este are the primary ports of call for cruise ships.

Ferry service connects Buenos Aires with Colonia, Montevideo, and Punta del Este.
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SOURCE:
“Discover Uruguay, the right mix for US tourists”
By Peter Lowy for Travel World News
MercoPress
March 26th, 2009
http://www.mercopress.com
http://en.mercopress.com/2009/03/26/discover-uruguay-the-right-mix-for-us-tourists

It’s slow. Cabs actually stop at crosswalks and it didn’t matter if I walked by the same small cobblestone lined street for the tenth time – I was happy to be in the oldest town in Uruguay, which was founded by the Portuguese in 1680.

One of my guides, Alejandro, on the other hand was fed up with foreign writers romanticizing his city as picturesque and quaint.

He told me that Colonia “is an infinite labyrinth in a tiny space where one can begin a search, but never complete it.”

Ok, I get it. Locals can romanticize it… foreigners no.

But he was on to something.

The layers of history in this place are too thick, I thought as I a stumbled on a rock on the gravel of a parking lot where Bastion de San Pedro de Alcantara used to be. “Such is Colonia, bit by bit, it reveals its secrets,” said Archeologist Buby Fusco. “We have to make a note of this place.”

It wasn’t a rock that I stumbled on.

Right beneath my feet was more evidence of the Portuguese contribution to Uruguay’s history. However, the city waits for funds to begin the archaeology work and so the Bastion de San Pedro remains a parking lot.

In 2007, a dredger found two Portuguese cannons and that was not a happy day for Archeologist Alejo Cordero.

“It is too expensive to restore them… so either we would get funds or they had to go back in the water,” said Cordero.

History is expensive and Colonia is indebted with it.

Because of the oxygen deprived waters of the of Rio De La Plata, the riverbed is excellent at conserving materials. Artifacts like a 13-meter mast and a four-meter anchor are waiting for funding in a protected place in the bay.

The Portuguese cannons surfaced because there was a push for the funding. The Portuguese embassy provided administrative help, an Uruguayan professor in the United States worked out the solution to restore the cannons and the Uruguayan Heritage Commission provided the money.

Fusco made it clear that in the Barrio Historico (historic quarter) – designated in 1995 as a world heritage site by UNESCO – every building she showed me had Portuguese foundations.

Even the newer Posadas (inns) were built on top of preserved foundations.

She spent two decades retrieving that history.

The work done by her in the ruins of the governor’s house, such as Portuguese ceramic plates, is a reference point and is used to date shipwrecks around the world.

Colonia was founded by D. Manuel Lobo to expand Portuguese territorial claims in America and to keep its economic stronghold of the silver that flowed from the Potosi mines in Bolivia.

The first settlement lasted less than eight months. Through battles and treaties the town-changed hands more than ten times until 1828 when Uruguay finally settled its impendence from Argentina, Spain and Brazil.

It was here Portuguese introduced agriculture for the first time to Uruguay, the production of flour and the first theater play. Because of their presence, it forced the Spanish crown to invest in Buenos Aires, which was marginalized at the time.

Buby, a Fulbright Scholar from Uruguay, who studied in Florida, said she somehow fell in love with Portugal.

“I told my friend that I didn’t want to travel anymore when I got to Portugal,” said Buby. “She thought I was depressed. No. I saw people in the street, living, acting in a way that I thought I was back home. My love for Portugal is not by blood, it’s real love.”

As we walked the cobblestone streets, she remarked that the Portuguese were very ingenious adapting to the contours of the soil when building their streets as opposed to the more linear Spanish streets.

Yes, Buby… that must be real love to overlook the Portuguese “deixa andar” (let it be) attitude.

The Calle de los Suspiros (street of sights) is heralded as the most traditional Portuguese Street in Colonia, “where the ancient, forgotten, spirit of Sacramento still hovers.”

I don’t know about any spirits hovering above the street, when droves of tourists keep pounding the stones.

But if you get there early in the morning just before the ferry brings in the masses, and if you look towards the river with the sun hitting the two bottom Portuguese pink houses, Alejandro’s “infinite labyrinth” is less than a romanticized idea. That morning I saw something new, but old.

Portuguese monuments, archives and houses are spread out throughout the historic center, such as the Casa de Rios, the Portuguese Museum. Inside, furniture, uniforms and banners donated by the Portuguese government adorn the 18th century construction.

On one of the walls, a plaque marks the first meeting in 1979 of the Portuguese communities of Uruguay and Argentina.

But a living Portuguese community here was not to be found.

Nevertheless, Colonia has an honorary Portuguese consul.

I called him the consul of the dead, but retracted my statement to the “Consul of History.” That would be Nelson Agesta, a friendly middle-age businessman, politician and honorary consul. He took me for my third tour of Colonia.

The town of 20,000 has two living fourth generation Portuguese. The consul was nominated in the 80s when former Portuguese President Mario Soares visited Colonia and wanted to have an official presence to help the city prepare for its UNESCO application.

The consul maintains his relevance helping to prepare the visits of Portuguese dignitaries, and more importantly establishing links with Portuguese institutions in order to secure funding for historical projects.

Agesta drove me to the poor part of town, showing me empty textile factories and makeshift houses. He said that I had to see the good and the bad of Colonia.

The recession, which has paralyzed consumer spending in the United States, is hardly felt here.

“Uruguay isn’t afraid,” said Agesta.

Consumer habits may not have been altered, but a resort complex in Colonia was put on hold due to lack of worldwide credit.

Agesta left me at the hotel and I walked towards Bastion de San Pedro to hear the river.

At night, Buenos Aires glows red in the far off horizon. There was a strong jasmine scent in the air as I walked by Calle de los Suspiros. It struck me that I am truly the only person who grew up in Portugal on these streets – at least, if you believe the legends, the only one who still lives and breaths.
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SOURCE:
“South American Dias”
Top Stories
News
O Jornal
By: Luis Filipe Dias
03/20/2009
http://www.ojornal.com
http://www.ojornal.com/site/news.cfm?newsid=20284328&BRD=2677&PAG=461&dept_id=543384&rfi=6