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Tours in Buenos Aires

August 5, 2010 – 7:56 pm

Grizzled veteran of the ‘popular’ Daniel Edwards takes a whistle-stop tour of the very best (and worst) places to watch Argentine football.

Non-stop singing, drums, record-breaking banners, pyrotechnics and the odd near-riot; Argentine matches boast everything that, for better or worse, European football has managed to eradicate from its stands. A visit to a football match is a must-do for anyone visiting Argentina, but going in blind and clueless can be a bewildering and intimidating experience indeed.

Certain guidebooks make the prospect even more daunting, presenting an afternoon at the football stadium on the same level as running with the bulls in Pamplona or base-jumping; and with about the same chance of finishing without your wallet and camera. The truth is Argentine football can be a delightful and above all safe and secure day out, and as someone who spends far too much time jumping up and down in the terraces I am happy to pass on a few tips to make the experience as fun and pain-free as possible.

Stand Or Sit

You basically have two options when going to a match in Argentina: popular or platea. Popular essentially consists of concrete terraces penned in by moats or razor wire and is where the real hardcore fans congregate; Platea offers a rear-numbing plastic seat and the opportunity for more than three inches of personal space, but you will have to pay more for the privilege.

Many guides tell you to avoid the popular like the plague; I am just going to say, use some common sense. Concrete pens are not a place for young kids or people who don’t like elbows in their faces for 90 minutes, plus the view is usually terrible and you will struggle to get any decent pictures. If you want a real intense experience however and you are happy to stand for hours on end, please have no hesitation in taking the cheaper tickets.

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Stories of Gringo-bashing and stolen cameras do circulate but shouldn’t be an issue if you are a little streetwise; keep loose cash and electronics to a minimum and avoid wearing the opposition colors at all costs. Trouble occasionally does start but is usually confined to the nasty looking people in the middle and directed towards the police; stay away from them and you will leave happily with only bruised elbows and a headache from the ever-present cannabis cloud to inconvenience you on the way home.

What To Bring

As little as possible is the key, as Buenos Aires’ finest will most likely take it from you anyway. Lighters, bottles of water and anything else you can imagine as a projectile can be confiscated so travel light and save yourself undue hassle. Prepare as much as possible before leaving; on hot days drink plenty of water and sunscreen up to prevent heatstroke in the concrete heat traps that pass for many stadiums.

Also watch out for what may be already inside you and lay off the booze the night before; breathalyzers are common and the tolerated levels are low. As this writer found out, a late night on the beer combined with an early kick off can easily result in refused entry, and if you labor the point too much the police reserve the right to lock you in a van with the other undesirables for the match.

Female Fans

Football is the most macho pastime in a society which still places a high value on machismo, so don’t expect a great deal of politically correct behavior in and outside the grounds. Piropos – sexist comments or whistles launched at unsuspecting ladies on the streets – are widely accepted as normal in Argentina, so don’t be surprised to hear all manner of jeers and proposals of love as you walk to the ground – don’t fear however, for the policeman behind it won’t be expecting any response.

Apart from this show of chauvinism, Argentine football is surprisingly inclusive, and it is common to see teenagers and girls in their early twenties covered in club tattoos screaming obscenities at whoever displeases them.

Must-See Stadia

El Cilindro, Racing Club: Okay, as a La Academia socio I will admit to a bit of bias here, but for the sheer spectacle of the fans and the passion there is no better stadium in the country. Located just out of Buenos Aires in Avellaneda, the stadium is not the most accessible but there are several buses that run to and from downtown – be careful after dark wandering however as the barrio is undoubtedly rather down-at-heel. It’s platea here only for non members; this however will give you the very best view of the flares, fireworks and other madness that goes on down in the popular.

El Monumental, River Plate: Argentina’s biggest stadium and home of the national team, in terms of facilities and comfort this one is almost comparable with European stadia, but with all the associated shenanigans and spectacle of any Argentine team. Located in the leafy middle-class neighborhood of Nunez the ground is well served by transport and safe at all times of the day, and with a new improved River side promised the atmosphere should be electric.

Estadio Marcelo Bielsa, Newell’s Old Boys: If you are planning a trip to Rosario definitely make sure that you include a trip to Parque Independencia to see the Lepers play. The most striking thing about this almost 40,000 capacity stadium is the atmosphere created by the home fans; incredibly loud and waving a sea of red and black flags like a gang of anarchist pirates, this band can put the fear of god into opposition players and supporters.

Jose Dellagiovanna, Tigre: Hidden away in Buenos Aires’ northern suburbs, what this bunch lacks in numbers they make up in passion and noise. An added bonus is the location; located right on the La Plata delta, you can combine football with boat trips, riverside walks and all sorts of lovely tourist things. Also not to be missed if you’ve ever wondered what it would be like to experience an earthquake is the home popular: the stand shakes an alarming amount every time the ‘Matadors’ start jumping.

Ones To Miss:

Nuevo Gasometro, San Lorenzo: So grim even their own fans want to move away, the Ciclon home ground is a true logistic nightmare. Stuck on the southern outskirts of the city the stadium is a nightmare to get to and even harder to escape from, and to make things even more fun is located adjacent to one of the city’s biggest and most notorious shanty towns – as obtaining drinks, cigarettes and any other provisions mean an adventure into the villa. Inside the soulless concrete bowl does little to compensate for the dodgy setting, meaning that unless you have a SanLore fanatic in your midst it’s best to give this one a swerve.

Julio Humberto Grondona, Arsenal de Sarandi: Oh dear. Just the fact that Arsenal’s home ground is named for the ‘delightful’ dictator at the head of Argentine football should be enough to keep you away. Located in a neighborhood, which makes La Boca look like Beverly Hills, Sarandi is almost impossible to reach without an intricate knowledge of Buenos Aires transport and a strong nerve, while home attendances of 500 or less in a dank, windswept hellhole mean that you certainly won’t be missing anything by staying away. One redeeming factor however is that the security and welcome you will receive at this ground is incredibly good-humored and friendly; mainly because your group may consist of roughly half the paying customers at any given game.

Well, If You Must:

La Bombonera, Boca Juniors: Boca. A word that conjures up romantic notions of colored houses, street tango and Diego Maradona for tourists, and daylight muggings, broken streets and the smell of excrement for residents in Buenos Aires. Let’s face it, if you are a football fan you will want to see the famous old stadium, and there is no sound that compares with the explosion when the Bosteros go in front. The cracking atmosphere inside just about compensates for the horror all around the stadium; if you are coming to Boca come with a plan.

Know how you are getting there and how to leave, as taking a wrong turn in this neighborhood is a big no-no. Leave valuables and excess cash at home, dress down and don’t buy your tickets from a tout (see above), and you will have a fantastic Bombonera experience. One final word of warning: the popular experience in La Boca for non-members comes with an added nicety – being situated directly under the away fans, who are fond of spitting on those down below if the result is not to their liking!!
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SOURCE:
“Goal.com Special: The Essential Survival Guide To Argentine Football”
By Daniel Edwards
Aug 2, 2010
http://www.goal.com
http://www.goal.com/en-us/news/3297/argentina/2010/08/02/2053368/goalcom-special-the-essential-survival-guide-to-argentine

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