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Buenos Aires, Tango, Shopping, Delicacies, Hotels

December 23, 2009 – 12:44 pm

Some call Buenos Aires ‘Paris of the south’, yet the Argentine capital is a rich mix of cultures and architectural styles with an undercurrent of hot Latin passion.

This zest for life makes Buenos Aires Latin America’s hottest destination – and it’s just a 13-hour flight from Australia’s east coast.

Argentina is the birthplace of the tango and tied to two of the most fervent figures in history, Eva Peron and Che Guevara, who was born in Rosario, four hours north of the capital, but studied medicine in Buenos Aires.

The city is made up of barrios, or neighbourhoods, each with a distinctive feel. The tree-lined boulevards of Recoleta are undeniably Parisian, with buildings featuring mansard roofs and cafes spilling onto the footpath. Jacarandas bloom in public garden squares and dog walkers lead well-groomed hounds along the immaculate streets. This affluent district is where you’ll find the city’s art galleries, fine dining and upscale shopping.

La Boca is close to the water and features tenements built with discarded corrugated iron from ships and homes painted in bright colours. One of the oldest barrios, La Boca is now a vibrant tourist area with tango dancers on the street and souvenir shops.

In Buenos Aires the portenos, or locals, take things slowly and enjoy life at a relaxed pace. Peak hour continues to 1pm, and dinner is a leisurely event that spans several hours, often until 2am.

Time to tango

The sensual tango began here in the late 19th century. Stroll the cobblestone streets of San Telmo to see the dancing in action at an array of late-night tanguerias.

For a real tango experience, venture to the basement of the Armenian Cultural Center on La Viruta Armenia Street after 11.30pm. Or take lessons through Maneras Argentinas (www.manerasargentinas.com.ar).

The city is also home to some of the most passionate soccer fans in the world who have been devoted to the sport long before one of their favourite sons, Diego Maradona, scored ‘the goal of the century’ in 1986.

In the barrio of La Boca, expect to see a sea of red and yellow, the colours of famed soccer team Boca Juniors. At the stadium, La Bombonera, peruse the club’s great history in the Museo de la Pasion Boquense museum (www.museoboquense.com), or visit on a Sunday to catch a match and soak up the incredible atmosphere.

Don’t cry for me…

Buenos Aires’ most famous citizen was Eva Peron, the wife of President Juan Peron, heralded for her dedication to the working class. Also known as Evita (meaning ‘Little Eva’), she was most recently portrayed on the silver screen by Madonna. Head to pink Casa Rosada, the presidential palace, to see the balcony where the masses once cheered Eva on. Or take the Evita Peron tour guided by university historians (www.eternautas.com).

Eva, who died at the age of 33, rests in the Duarte family mausoleum in the exclusive Recoleta cemetery. Locals claim it’s cheaper to live a life in Buenos Aires than be buried here. At this cemetery, Eva is surrounded by the wealthy people who were once her enemies. Just follow the crowds to find her final resting place – admission is free.

TOP SHOPPING

Explore the city with Buenos Aires Boutique Tours led by Australian Kirsty Noble, who will let you in on the capital’s best-kept secrets. Visit www.baboutiquetours.com.ar.

For leather goods, head to Calle Florida in the Microcentro area, the only fully pedestrianised street in Buenos Aires. For handmade leather goods and polo attire at good prices, visit Rossi & Caruso, www.rossicaruso.com.

Stroll the cobblestone streets of San Telmo and browse the antique shops, but save your visit for a Sunday when Plaza Dorrego comes alive with markets and tango dancers.

The boutiques of Palermo feature some of Buenos Aires’ hottest designers, so stop by for fantastic local fashion and accessories.

Avenida Santa Fe is a main shopping street for locals and tourists. This lengthy stretch of shops is perfect for browsing Argentine chain stores and finding bargains.

Top 5 Argentine Delicacies

Take tea or lunch at L’Orangerie in the Alvear Palace Hotel, widely considered one of the best hotels in Latin America. The irresistible buffet is overflowing with delicacies. Visit www.alvearpalace.com.

El Obrero restaurant, a city institution since 1954, in La Boca has been visited by stars such as Susan Sarandon, Tim Robbins and Bono. Order a steak from the Pampas region and sip on a glass of the delicious Argentine red wine, Malbec.

Try mate (pronounced ‘ma-tay’), the popular tea drunk through a straw in a gourd. The drink has a caffeine-like hit and is a staple for portenos.

Cafe Tortoni on Avenida de Mayo (above) is an atmospheric coffeehouse visited by literary figures and heads of state. Head to www.cafetortoni.com.ar.

Dulce de leche are delicious pastries with oodles of caramel heaped on top. Head to Confiteria Eiffe in Recoleta of Tentempie in San Telmo to indulge in these traditional sweet treats.

Where to stay

The luxurious Sofitel Buenos Aires is a fully renovated 1920s art deco building. Set among art galleries in the tree-lined Retiro neighbourhood, the Sofitel has a distinct chandelier in the lobby framed by a glass atrium. The bar, Cafe Arroyo, offers wines and cocktails, while La Bibliotheque (‘the library’)has shelves of books on Argentine history by a log fire. Best of all, prices are very reasonable. Visit www.sofitel.com.

The boutique Hotel Home in Palermo features indulgent in-house spa sessions. Try the invigorating Jet-lag Recovery treatment. For more, visit www.homebuenosaires.com.

For opulence – and if money is no object – try the Park Hyatt Buenos Aires. The palatial former private residence stands grand on Avenida Alvear, the city’s most elegant and exclusive boulevard. Visit www.buenosaires.park.hyatt.com.

To Go:

Qantas has just introduced direct flights from Sydney to Buenos Aires three times a week. Call 13 13 13 or visit www.qantas.com. For more information on Argentina, visit Destino Argentina, www.destinoargentina.info.
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SOURCE:
“Last tango in Buenos Aires”
10-02-2009
Yahoo Lifestyle
http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com
http://au.lifestyle.yahoo.com/b/new-idea/21346/last-tango-in-buenos-aires