Travelling around Salta, Argentina

Reporter Ilan Brat on what to do, where to eat and where to stay in Salta, Argentina.

What to do: Nicknamed Salta the Pretty, this city in the far northwest of Argentina draws tourists with its well-preserved Spanish colonial architecture, as well as the jagged rock formations and multicolored mountains that sit amid large, flat expanses of grass and shrubs. For the best view of Salta’s red-tile roofs and the valley beyond, ride the cable car from Parque San Martin up to the top of a big hill on the eastern side of the city (about $5 round trip, frequent departures every day from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m.). Closer to the city center, check out the white-walled Convento San Bernardo, a still-functioning convent that was the site of one of Argentina’s first hospitals during the country’s independence battles in the early 1800s (intersection of Caseros and Santa Fe). During the day, nuns sells pastries for less than $1 each through a revolving door to avoid contact with the outside world. Don’t miss the rococo Iglesia San Francisco, built in the early 1800s, with its dark red and gold tower serving as a striking landmark (corner of Caseros and Córdoba). The central square, Plaza 9 de Julio, is the prettiest part of the city. The ornate façades of the Iglesia Catedral Basílica de Salta, a shopping center, the municipal building and a museum housing three Inca skeletons ring a park dotted with palm trees. For a day trip, rent a car and drive about two hours south to Cafayate, the heart of Argentina’s second-largest wine region (the largest is Mendoza) or about three hours north to the small town of Purmamarca in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a strip of valleys in which adobe homes sit at the foot of mountains so colorful that they look painted with a brush. For other views, drive to the northwest to find a subtropical forest; or head east to find yourself in a jungle. Back in Salta, at night buy a bag of honey-coated popcorn for about 50 cents from a pushcart and stroll the pedestrian walkway on Peatonal Alberdi.

What to eat

El Patriarca, a spacious restaurant near the central square at Buenos Aires 61, has straightforward, affordable regional cuisine, including tamales for about $1.25 each order of two and a thick pork-and-corn stew (+54 387-4213-577). Doña Salta, in a restored Spanish colonial mansion, offers courtyard seating and a variety of foods, from beef to humita, a mix of corn and spices wrapped in corns husks (Cordoba 46, +54 387-4321-921, www.donasalta.com.ar). Head to La Vieja Estación for dinner and a show (Balcarce 877, +54 387-4217-727, show costs about $5). Live Argentine folk music and dancing begins around 10 p.m. Order the llama-meat empanadas wrapped in dough and cooked in a clay oven, and for dessert taste the regional favorite of cayote con nuez, a sweetened, fibrous fruit with walnuts. Principal plates start at about $5.

Where to stay

Four-star Hotel Salta has a prime location on the central square. Though its rooms are simply adorned, the second floor offers sweeping views of the mountains (Buenos Aires 1, www.hotelsalta.com, +54 387-4267-500, double rooms start at about $87). Discounts are available through December for those who pay in cash). Five-star Alejandro 1 hotel in front of the beautiful Plaza Belgrano has Jacuzzis in executive and presidential suites and a large swimming pool in a centrally located spot (www.alejandro1hotel.com.ar, +54 387-4000-000, double rooms start at about $100).
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SOURCE:
“Salta, Argentina”
By Ilan Brat
19-11-2009
The Wall Street Journal
http://www.wsj.com
http://online.wsj.com/article/SB20001424052748704533904574543641693820078.html