Argentina BLOG

Argentine Wine and Mendoza’s Wineries

“One of the most exciting wine-producing countries is Argentina. Where Chile was five years ago and Australia was 15 years ago, Argentina is today, producing lots of high-quality wine, even at $12 a bottle or less.

The two main things to know about Argentine wine are malbec and torrontes. Those are the two grapes on which Argentina is building its unique identity.

The red grape malbec was a key component of the stately blends of Bordeaux, France. It fell out of favor there long ago and not much remains. But malbec found a home in Argentina, where its full-bodied, smoky wines are ideal matches with any red meat, particularly those cooked over a flame.

The fragrant white grape torrontes doesn’t have a very distinguished family tree. It’s a cross between two other grapes, the white grape muscat of Alexandria and red grape mission. Muscat of Alexandria is a table grape eaten as fruit in Mediterranean areas and used to make white raisins in California. But it has also been used to make wines. You can try this torrontes parent in the rather sweet and inexpensive Alice White Lexia from Australia.

Mission doesn’t have much of a pedigree either. It’s the U.S. name of a red grape that is used in California bulk wines and sold to home winemakers. Let’s not hold those roots against torrontes. Occasionally, questionable parents generate outstanding children. Such is the case with this offspring.

I tried entry-level malbecs and torrontes from two well-regarded producers, Crios from Susana Balbo, and Luigi Bosca Finca de la Linda. All are available in the state’s so-called “specialty” stores.

The smells of Crios 2008 Torrontes, Cafayatte, are tropical, grapey, even piney and call to mind Lemon Pledge furniture polish. The flavors are of grapefruit, lemon oil and pineapple. The wine is overflowing with character. I like it, but some people I tried it with got that furniture polish association and couldn’t let go. Those with misgivings could try the outstanding, and more refined, 2007 Crios, which is still available. $13. HHH 1/2

Bosca Finca de la Linda 2007 Torrontes smells like white flower, vanilla, lemon and slate, and tastes like light Sprite-y citrus. Mouthwatering acids and a nice finish make this a good food wine. I see this graceful wine with Thai food. $11. HHHH 1/2

Crios 2007 Malbec, Mendoza, is similarly rich in smells with plum, blackberry and a hint of menthol. It delivers up-front flavors akin to fruit preserves. This wine is nice and jammy, but would benefit from a bigger finish. $13. HHH 1/2

Finca de la Linda 2006 Malbec, comes from Luyan de Cuyo, a portion of Mendoza where growers comply with rules on vine age, yields and farming practices designed to contribute to, theoretically, better wine. Very earthy, the wine has tobacco, forest floor, pepper and root beer character on the palate. A bit of an oddball, but interesting. $11. HHHH

Considering these two Argentine lables, the Crios wines are big, generous, fruitful wines that most people would find likeable and accessible — perfect for parties. By comparison, Bosca’s Finca de la Linda is more of a wallflower, subtle, but with more structure, balance and character.

Expect to see more Argentine wines in 2009. Don’t hesitate to try even the least expensive. You’ll be surprised at how good they are.

Grade: Exceptional HHHHH, Above average HHHH, Good HHH, Below average HH, Poor H” [1]

Wines in Mendoza

“Due to the extension of the Province of Mendoza, it is necessary to divide it into zones, according to their significantly different weather, height and soil characteristics.- High Zone of the Mendoza River: with heights ranging from 800 to 1,100m over sea level and various microclimates, this is a zone where almost all noble varieties of wine have easily become adapted. Malbec outstands.

- Northern Zone: zone suitable for fruity white and young red wines, with a height from 600 to 700m.
Eastern Zone: with a height ranging from 600 to 700m, this is the most productive wine zone in the province.
- Uco Valley: this is a zone of colder weather and higher altitudes (between 800 and 1,400m over sea level). The largest part of the vineyards is located on the Pre-mountain range slopes. Wines with very good acidity are obtained.
- San Rafael: with heights ranging from 450 to 800m. In 1993, the San Rafael Origin Denomination is implemented.The Province of Mendoza is the most traditional area in the viticultural industry and the wineries settled there deserve an independent chapter each. It is impossible to talk about Mendoza without mentioning each one of them: López, Valentín Bianchi, San Telmo, Escorihuela, Cavas de Weinert, J&F Lurton, Trapiche, Flichman, La Rural, Norton, Félix Lavaque, Lagarde, Navarro Correas, Nieto Senetiner, Goyenechea, Chandon. You can tour the Mendoza wineries and vineyards either by a private and customized tour or by joining any of the pre-arranged Wine Tours offered.” [2]

“Argentina is the largest wine producer in South America and the 5th largest in the world, with over 1,200 million liters (2003), and the 13th largest exporter in the world (431 million USD in 2005). Due to the high altitude and low humidity of the main wine producing regions, Argentine vineyards rarely face the problems of insects, fungi, moulds and other diseases that affect grapes in other countries. This permits cultivating with little or no pesticides, allowing even organic wines to be easily produced.” [3]